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Twenty hours from the center

As well as whether they live in the village of Polina Osipenko in the Khabarovsk Territory, it was found out by EastRussia

The village of Polina Osipenko is a district center of the same municipality in the Khabarovsk Territory. From the main city of the region to it is less than 750 km, but any navigation program will give you that to go to the car there for hours 18-20 - and will not strongly bend your electronic-satellite soul. Through what lies the path to the village and the lives of nearly two thousand local residents, East Russia helped to learn the editor-in-chief of the regional newspaper "Amgunskaya Pravda" Tatyana Goncharova.

Twenty hours from the center

- Imagine that you leave the house on the street, and everyone is greeting you. And you greet everybody. And if someone does not greet each other, then people will start discussing, the gossip will go through the village - what happened.

So at one time I tried to describe the village life better for me Khabarovsk, who for several years exchanged problems of the regional center for a measured life closer to nature. "Closer to nature" - just turned out to be a village to them. Polina Osipenko. Tatiana Goncharova further reveals the intricacies of close communication between fellow villagers.

"Oh, yes, we know how many rural groups in WhatsApp!" In every case of life - what and where to buy, what about the kindergarten or school to find out what is the state of the road, but what if it's not enough. Everyone knows what is happening, - says Tatyana.

We talk to her on the mobile phone. First, they tell me that at the other end of the network, "the subscriber is unavailable," then for an hour of conversation, the signal is interrupted three times and you have to call back. In the village services of all operators of the Big Three are available, but the quality is very lame. A SIM card is usually bought at an opportunity in Komsomolsk-on-Amur or in Khabarovsk. At one time they were sold in the post office, and sometimes businessmen are brought, but still it is more convenient on the "big earth". Ibid, however, where all the necessary modern homo sapiens gadgets.

As a rule, local residents do not use mobile Internet - it is completely bad. But many houses have Wi-Fi routers and Internet TV. The supplier of these services is the only one here - Rostelecom, so in case of malfunctions, at times, the expectation of their correction is delayed - all the same, more customers will not flee to anyone. The minimum package costs in 999 rubles for accessing the world web, and 350 for a hundred TV channels. This is a month.


- In general, electricity is the only service of the housing and communal services sector, for which we mostly pay here. But the sums are round. Big expenses because we have everything here on electricity. In addition to the city's light and a standard set of electrical appliances, we often turn on the pump to lift water from the well (it is different for each house, rarely anyone carries water from wells) to run on the domestic water supply - we also want everything to be civilized. Someone who keeps animals is something - it must also be heated. But luxury in the form of a "warm floor" allow yourself a few, still more than 7 rubles per kWh pay (in Khabarovsk - 4,27 rubles - EastRussia). And for legal entities the tariff is generally more than 17 rubles, - Tatyana says.

Now, when children with grandchildren live separately, the Goncharovs run into a minimum of about a thousand rubles a month. In winter, these utility costs add the need to buy three or four firewood machines. One is 2 cubic meters, an average of 8 thousand. Considering the need to heat the furnace until May, it happens that the sum of 15-45 thousand can not do. This despite the fact that the village is located in close proximity to logging.

Central heating, by the way, is. But only in the buildings of municipal institutions, the school and the hospital. And in two "multi-apartment" houses for several apartments. Heats all the old boiler house, which breathes on incense.

In addition to electricity and firewood, gasoline and diesel fuel are expensive. The last one is already more expensive than 53 rubles. And without their own cars and snowmobiles, there is practically no way. And it is desirable, that the four-wheeled friend was from the category of off-road cars, though it does not always help to overcome summer impassability. From the last trip Tatyana's husband returned, breaking through the bumper, getting a dent in the wing and losing two wheels.

Local people say that only "winter asphalt" saves them - a snow-ice crust on the track. Without it, even a shuttle bus does not reach, and from neighboring Briakan 60 kilometers of people are lucky with a poorly comfortable watch.

There is an airport here, and even the dispatching service is functioning. But for several years the air harbor does not work in fact. A railway branch only reaches the village. Birch in the Sunny area - from it to the village named Polina Osipenko, the path of a hundred and fifty kilometers lies literally through the taiga.

It is the road that considerably restricts the villagers in choosing products, clothes, furniture, household appliances. They do not complain, they say that they never sit without food. Particularly praise the bread, which is produced by a local bakery, - they are called to come and certainly try. Worse, of course, with fruits and vegetables, especially perishable: when the road after heavy log transporters is hit by rain, few entrepreneurs risk to carry the vitamin product, fearing that for several days the truck will have to wait for an opportunity to get to the district center. And who risks - makes an impressive cheat to the normal price.

"We live on the river, of course, our men are fishing." But the Amgun is closed to commercial fishing, so they catch a bit, buying a sports-amateur license. Of course, there are poachers. There are a lot of lakes around us, so the white fish, the partial lakes are always there. There are hunters, go to the elk, then sell meat. There are people in the village who breed poultry, pigs and cows. And they bring us pork, lamb, and beef - from Yakutia they are now taking a lot. Kilo - from 280 to 450 rubles. So we buy meat if possible, milk for 240 rubles for three liters of local, eggs homemade for 100 rubles a dozen, - shares the secrets of the Ospenkovo ​​diet Tatiana.

Clothes and small household utensils are brought to the stores, but the assortment is not particularly pleasing. Therefore, the villagers, especially young people, have recently been actively mastered by AliExpress, Joom and other online stores. All receive by mail.


Generally young guys and girls, as expected, are the first to learn modern wisdom - like calculations through online banking. True, they are the ones who quickly master, the first and escape from their native village. First they leave to receive a profession after school - in Khabarovsk or Komsomolsk-on-Amur. Then they settle there permanently. 

But there are exceptions - the chicks return to the nest, and they even bring a couple with them. They say that this has become a trend in recent years. Perhaps because, without ties and own housing, gaining a foothold in the city is not so simple.

Twenty years ago, most of the local population, especially men, were employed in the mines. Now the former miners work as shift workers at the enterprises of Polymetal or the Third Mining and Geological Company. A new niche for employment was created by LLC Asia Forest - a strong sex works at a woodworking plant in Solnechny district. People looking for stability are going to work in the social sphere and cultural institutions, executive bodies, energy companies, branches of federal structures - the Pension Fund, the Prosecutor's Office, the Savings Bank, the police. On average, the salary in the district is 30-40 thousand rubles. This is taking into account the northern surcharges and the increased regional coefficient. Quite a bit for harsh conditions that require constant expenses for the arrangement of life.

Tatiana Goncharova's daughter is a local therapist and a kind of unique: after studying in Khabarovsk "honey", she became the first "target player" for 30 years. In addition to her, a surgeon, a neurologist, a pediatrician and a dentist are located at the local department of the interdistrict hospital (created in exchange for the CRH), whose headquarters are located in Komsomolsk-on-Amur. Patients of these specialists are very grateful. And they even praise the new recording system in the direction of the same Komsomolsk-on-Amur: at once, at home, they give a coupon - who will receive, on what day and at what time.

True, there are nuances. For example, a trip to the Komsomol hospital for examination does not fit into one day (all because of the road), and spending the night costs extra, if there are no relatives or friends who can take it. Pass the medical board - on the books, rights or possession of hunting weapons - you can only once a quarter. For this purpose, a licensed brigade from the head hospital arrives. The X-ray apparatus is rather old, and it can be serviced only by a laboratory technician. Happen to her vacation or something else (still a woman elderly) - and there is no one to make an emergency shot, nor a planned fluorography. But there is even an ambulance, on which a modest staff of doctors is on duty in turn. When it's a real disaster, the team of the Center for Disaster Medicine from Khabarovsk is helping out.


- It's bad that there is no gynecologist in the village. But now the boom of fertility. In the local kindergarten there is a queue - he only takes a hundred preschool children. And then, the wooden building - with a toilet on the street and water from the column - was not originally adapted for such an institution. In the village there is a project of erecting a new kindergarten for 140 places, but he was not included in the list of priority social projects of the region. But we have the most children from all villages in the district! - complains Tatyana Goncharova.

But the school, according to her, is remarkable in the village of Polina Osipenko. With interactive equipment and even a real stadium. And the roller blind was recently built in the village. There is a school of arts, and sports sections. Not always in Khabarovsk, the students have so many opportunities for additional classes.

On the question - what next, what plans - Tatiana uniquely responds that they are inclined to meet their husbands with old age in their small homeland. Of course, many retirees leave - who to their relatives, who are just "closer to the heat," and do not always wait for housing certificates for the resettlement program for the northerners (the queue is slowly moving, as slowly as the federal funding for the program drips).

- It's not so much that we are some kind of patriots. And yet we live near the taiga, the air here is clean, and the water is clean. And we are accustomed to it, - summarizes Tatyana Goncharova.
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