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Ternei: the edge where the mountains came from the sea
A unique photo-report from the Sikhote-Alin Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Khabarovsk photo traveler Kirill Chernykh (Vk.com/kirillchernykh) visited a corner of the Far Eastern nature, which is not given to everyone to see - the Sikhote-Alin Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, spread over four hundred thousand hectares of the eastern and central part of the great Sikhote-Alin ridge. How it was - EastRussia finds out firsthand.
Wikipedia is scanty for data. There were no photos or video reports on the Internet, but, despite all this, I decided for myself that I want to look at this place on this place, which lies in the picturesque valley of the river between the mountains.
Literally two weeks later, having solved the issue of accommodation and eventually, he left Khabarovsk for a meeting with the Primorsky Territory.
What about the road? Yes, probably, a lot, depends on which route you decide to get to. There are several of them: to Vladivostok, and from there by plane or by a direct bus; Or, as I went - from Khabarovsk to Dalnegorsk, and then, just under five hours on another bus. In the late evening I unloaded with a backpack and other attributes of a travel photographer in the center of the village.
The first descriptions of Terney can be found in the diaries of Vladimir Arsenyev. He lived in one of the fanzes of a Chinese village that inhabited the 233 man. A little higher upstream of the Sahoba River (now the Serebryanka River) were the fanzas of the basins - the "Udegan" Udege, which later were separated into a separate nationality.
Having reached Terney, everyone, probably, will see something of his own. I did not let go of the feeling that everything that was close to me: slow movement, the first passing car, stopped at my request, and carefree kids, that with their inherent rural simplicity and politeness greet you, just passing by. And now they are engaged in dialogue - how many golyanov they caught, and how they will now deal with them. And with all seriousness to this child, but for them a rich catch, you listen to this story.
What kind of people live in this village? Where are they from?
There are many people in Terne who moved here from different parts of the country. This can be most clearly seen from the young family of our friends, which happily placed us at home. The head of the family from Sakhalin, his wife from Udmurtia, their little child was born here, and for him this village will become a home.
The administration of the state natural biosphere reserve named after K.G. Abramov, the largest in the Primorsky Territory, is located in Terney. Every year, the reserve attracts new specialists: for various research projects, for protection, improvement of inspectors' huts and cordons used for patrolling and conducting scientific research. Located in the farthest corners of the reserve, they amaze with their thoroughness, make you think how much effort and energy was spent on their construction.
All of this definitely benefits the reserve. Arriving here on my second trip in less than a year, I saw new ones added to the existing landscaped eco-trails. The information center of the reserve is equipped with a cinema hall, the only one in the village, which organizes screenings of thematic films. At the cordon of Blagodatny a scientific hospital appeared (a separate room for researchers), providing more comfortable conditions for living and working.
Cordon the Blessed is, it is possible to say, the main cordon in the reserve and the starting point for different routes. From here begins the equipped ecotope along the lake of Blagodatnogo, on the shore of which two towers for research and bird watching are built. The second path goes to Cape North, from which you can observe the rookery of seals. Third - Golubichnaya Bay - goes through the pass to the neighboring bay with a sandy beach and beautiful scenery. Recently, the cleaning of a new trail for tourists to the Lysaya mountain began, which was used earlier, mainly by researchers. It became the main point in my trip to the reserve.
Towards the campaign began to prepare in the evening. We collected rucksacks, prepared a modest daily supply of provisions. We left for a day. Considered that it is necessary to spend the night not in tents, but in the inspector's hut, where the employees of the reserve usually stop for rest. So, you do not have to carry tents with you uphill.
The morning was sunny, but already realizing that the weather at the sea - a girl capricious, put raincoats in raincoats and set out on the way - initially to the office of the reserve. From there we were to be abandoned by a car to the starting point of the route - the checkpoint (checkpoint) "Blagodatnoe". Transportation of the reserve's employees is different, but all the same difficulties with roads dictate to him the general requirements - to be higher, and passer-by. As a result, having loaded with backpacks in "UAZ Patriot", for half an hour we met up to the checkpoint, where we were met by the inspectors, who are constantly on duty here, and the kitten named "Chef", who strove to get into the backpack and go with us to meet adventures.
Here we started climbing uphill, at first almost imperceptible, with a boggy path, but as we move deeper into the forest, everything is steeper. On the way, we were overtaken by a student detachment "Tiger" led by a specialist in the arrangement of ecological paths Anna Gritsuk. They have been improving the trails in the reserve for almost a month now. Now mark a new route with marking bands, saw and remove the fallen tree from the trail. Thanks to them, the climb to the hut took not two and a half hours, as a year earlier, but only one and a half.
The hut dryly greeted us with the smell of freshly mown grass and the chirping of grasshoppers. Here we also settled down to rest, having decided to have lunch and wait for less bright sun. Although you can take pictures in the midday sun, of course, you can, but it creates a lot of difficulties. The light from the sun in the woods stains, which alternate with deep shadows in the ferns and bushes. Therefore, instead of running further, we, having had lunch, settled down on a tourist rug to use the midday sun with benefit and an hour to sunbathe on this mountain slope.
The climb to the top of the mountain was quite steep. An hour and a half, with many stops to capture stunning views. The mountain seemed to open its beauties slowly with a set of heights: here we take pictures of Comfort Bay and Blagodatnoe Lake through the trees; Here you can see the view of Golubichnaya bay. And again we stop and take out the cameras. The remaining two hundred meters to the top of the mountain is a scree of rocks, like islands, now and here, overgrown with cedar oak and century-old fir trees, with thick trunks as if they are crouched along the ground. The low and stocky inhabitants of this peak, who saw hurricanes that put the forest like grass; And the rains from which the Serebryanka flowing below, calmly carrying its waters into the sea, turns into a mighty and stormy river.
The view from Lysaya Mountain is really worth the work that students from all over Russia do below. It is worth making trails here, but not for idle onlookers, carrying only rubbish and din with them, but for people who are passionate about nature. People who see the beauty of the Sikhote-Alin Reserve and the view from the peaks of this ridge will want to participate in the preservation of these natural resources - pristine age-old forests and its inhabitants, animals and birds that are found here at every step.
This time I reached my main goal, which I had two years to do - to be here at the top of a protected mountain and take a picture of how the sun hides in the tops of an ancient and stern ridge. And now you can sit down again, open the map of the Far East, and, having gone somewhere, write a new note about the region in which we were lucky to be born or to visit. But I will return to the Sikhote-Alin Reserve as well - for the sake of new meetings and new dawns ...