Irkutsk
Ulan-Ude

Blagoveshchensk
Chita
Yakutsk

Birobidzhan
Vladivostok
Khabarovsk

Magadan
Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

Anadyr
Petropavlovsk-
Kamchatsky
Moscow

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Happiness complete networks

Happiness complete networks

Honestly, you rarely meet people more hospitable. They will both warm them up and feed them, and they will also charge them with such a positive that they become indifferent to the traditional "delights" of Kamchatka nature - fog or drizzle. When it comes to the small peoples of the north, the word “traditional” is involuntarily repeated over and over again: the traditional way of life and fishing gear, the traditions of the north and the traits of the northerners, among which, of course, the best are hospitality and openness.

“How long have I called you to our Malolagornaya? - This is not the first time I have heard these words from Larisa Kergilkhot, the head of the ethnic dance ensemble "Severnye Zori". - When will you arrive?

"It's so cool!" When the sun, we are running barefoot along the beach! - echoes her daughter, 10-year-old Darina, - even put a yurt! "

"And soon we'll build a yukolnik," adds Larissa, pouring me a cup of aromatic tea in a mug, "Mamychka" is our way. There are enough assistants on the site - our big family and the guys from Achai Vayama and Khailino, we are standing in one camp.

I know firsthand about the hospitality and openness of these people, because at one of the Alkhalalalaevs I had just led my five year old child to this young, smiling woman and hesitantly asked: “Will you take me to your ensemble?”. And she replied: “Of course!” (Alakhalalalai is an Itelmen ritual holiday, celebrated in September. - author's note) Then I still didn’t know how cool this meeting would change our life, what a new and interesting world would open. World of the indigenous peoples of Kamchatka.

Without fish - nowhere

“We have been at Malolagernaya for the third year,” says Larisa, “we are glad that now there is a permit for catching coho salmon and sockeye salmon. After all, before the limit was given only for pink salmon, chum salmon and char. We fish, as they say, for personal consumption. We cannot afford it yet - our territorial-economic community (TCO) “Yako” does not have its own fishing area, which means that we are not entitled to quotas, which amount to tens of tons. "

By the way, the communities of the indigenous peoples who are happy owners of fishing areas, in Kamchatka are not so many. Therefore, often people who have united in communities, but who have not received industrial quotas, fish in their traditional areas. Such "hardened" places, passed to them "by right of succession" from grandmothers and grandfathers. Officially these plots may not be fixed, but everyone in the district knows whose place it is. People's rumor has fixed them for a long time.

So in the remote northern villages and villages, fishing with the phrase "for personal consumption" is still common. In order not to miss this opportunity, the residents submit applications until 1 September. About whatever limit they have not dreamed of, filling out the application, in the distribution does not fall much and much. Approximately 5 kg coho salmon and sockeye salmon, about 40 kg chum, 50 kg smelt "per brother" ... True, and this small amount is not always possible to master. For Malolagernaya, for example, fishing has been closed for three weeks already. A smelt sometimes does not want to fall into the place where it is supposed to be caught by law.

“Thank you for giving us the opportunity to fish here, near the city, - says Larisa. - For our family, this is a great help. But fishing was closed for a long time, and the fish, as we know, does not last long. In general, until we had time We have just started to master our limit and cooked fish soup several times, we thought we would make a yukolka. "

Yes. This summer, let's face it, does not indulge in fish. The west coast, on which the bet is made in an even year, counts the losses, because a lot of money was invested in the improvement of the factories, in attracting people to Putin. And a couple of hunchback "jolts" does not pay back the costs. There would be a "guarantee" to return, seasonal fish-growers sigh, the authorities promised. And hopefully waiting for coho.

And without a fish, a northern man is nowhere. If in the city, summer harvesting is just a good help in the winter along with potatoes or cabbage, then, for example, for the inhabitant of Ust-Khayryuzovo, fish is the main product. Bend your fingers: it is salted, frozen, dried with salt and without (made yukola), smoked by everyone's favorite balyk, even “sour” in barrels, and pickled salt. They themselves eat and treat numerous relatives and friends. In distant villages, where wages are low and prices are higher than the roof, the fish “dress” and “shoe” children for school, it gives an opportunity to survive a long harsh winter, to block at least a fraction of the problems of the northerners.

Larissa Kergilhot's family has been unfolding camp for the third year. 14 people, including four children. Which only services do not check their camp, whole day surveillance from the pier behind each tail. At all desire the poacher you will not become! But seriously, it is not the most secluded place for poaching. And the concept is sometimes blurry. Often poachers are called ordinary people, who were not allowed to fish lawfully bureaucratic obstacles.

"But do not interrupt the connecting thread"

Many people of the North, having settled in the city for a long time, continue to keep memories in their souls and feel sad about a distant village, lost between the hills or somewhere in the tundra blown by all winds. And here, in nature, at the bay, I just want to recreate a piece of that small Motherland. Here, the yurt was set according to all the rules, taking for this purpose anything at all, namely the talnik - the material is light and durable. If you prepare it correctly, 20 can serve for years! This year, the “Electrical Networks” went to a meeting - they were allowed to cut off the branches of a warden that interfered with the electrical wires.

“Of course, all our buildings are temporary, mobile,” Larisa continues her story. “If you leave it for the winter,“ kind ”people will burn or break it, this has already happened ... We bring houses for spending the night with us. Fishing for us is also an opportunity to get together. a large family - parents, brothers, sisters, children, nephews ... Men are engaged in the shutter, women sew, embroider with beads, prepare food. "

"We have a lot of guests. We are all glad. When our locals come - people" from the north ", tales around the fire begin, stories about who got married, who died or was born. My mother - Alexandra Alekseevna Simonova - tells us fairy tales at handcraft and everyday stories, which then form the basis of the creativity of our ensemble. Recently I got the idea of ​​a new dance - how we fish, how we set nets. We will definitely do it with the children. This is how the connection with the North is maintained, and new ideas are born ", - shares it.

“Last year, by the way, we met with Evdokia Pronina. And here, on a fishing trip, Evdokia Pavlovna said that she had long been going to publish stories for the children of her brother Arkady Ninani in Russian and Koryak. Word for word. I advised her to contact our art studio. Kamchatka Center for the Development of Creativity of Children and Youth “Dawns of Kamchatka.” The guys from the “Kolibri” art studio drew illustrations for the future book, and the “New Book” holding released the collection “On Good Earth”, ”recalls Larisa.

Know and be able to - since childhood

Children in the fishing camp happen interesting and useful. Here they learn to respect the fish, to all living things. And there is no contradiction, because the indigenous peoples have never taken more from nature than was necessary for subsistence.

Here, children from early childhood are managed with networked networks, know the time of the tide and when it's time to check the catch. They learn to go out to sea and fish. At six in the morning the boys are already on their feet - pulling out the net, carrying the prey on the table, so that women cook something delicious, learn the basics of harvesting fish. Girls also do not lag behind: they help with the grid, and salmon are engaged in cutting, but they turn around more with their grandmothers - very handsome dolls and embroideries are obtained from her.

Larisa Kergilhot tries to introduce not only native children to the traditional indigenous peoples' crafts, but also members of the ensemble "North Dawns", who have long become one big family. Girls are beading their kitchens, making different decorations: earrings, "headdresses", "sunshine", go to the forest for berries-mushrooms go.

"I really want the children of our team not only to dance or sew, but also to be able to fish, salt, smoke," sour "fish, cook national dishes. And also learn how to properly process fish skins for handicrafts. It's so great - not just looking from the outside, but also to plunge into the process - to swim on a boat, to take the fish out of the shuttle. So now I am considering a project to introduce children to this traditional activity of the indigenous peoples of Kamchatka, "the teacher shares.

The road by walking

Yes, she always has a lot of plans. But you know, it's not just words. The guys from the "Northern Dawn" (many are raised in families with many children or low-income families) have easily visited Larissa at international festivals in Bulgaria, Egypt, and this year they also conquered Turkish Alanya. And never once with empty hands on Kamchatka land did not return. Of course, generous and caring people helped them to realize the wildest dreams of boys and girls, which are many in Kamchatka. Sponsors, philanthropists, patrons, thank you and a low bow. By the way, in November the "North Dawns" will celebrate the 10 anniversary of creative activity. So welcome to the concert!

“Oh, if our community“ Yako ”had the opportunity to get quotas for industrial fishing,” Larisa Sergeevna continues to dream, “if only we turned around, the ensemble would be sheathed! You know, one day I want to make a restaurant on the water with national cuisine, so that guests the dancing of our ensemble was delighted, and the children could demonstrate their crafts.

And we also want to revive the spring Chukchi ritual holiday "Kilvey" (the birth of a fawn), in which everyone, from children to old people, would take part. After all, the culture of Chukotka in the Kamchatka Territory is little represented, the ceremonial part could be carried out by my mother - Alexandra Alekseevna and her good friend Yulia Abertynskaya from Achay Vayam, who knows the intricacies of ancient rituals, ”says Larisa.

***

For a long time, as is customary among the Koryaks, Chukchi, Itelmen, we drank tea and talked about how many wonderful ideas can be realized. "It seems to me that we should always voice our dreams," Larissa is sure, "then they will surely come true!" I wondered what I wanted? And I realized that I would sooner come to Malagonnaya. Spend an evening at the fire, listen to one of the Koryak legends and maybe, if they open the fishing, pull out a full-mesh net.

Published in the newspaper "Fisherman of Kamchatka". EastRussia.ru is an information partner of the "Rybak Kamchatka" newspaper.

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