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The most valuable thing on Bikin is silence
"Somewhere a large hadronic collider accelerates the Higgs boson, and somewhere a Udege man on a frost-bender goes after a beast against the wind." About a trip to the national park "Bikin" in Pozharsky district of Primorsky Krai - journalist Maria Netrebenko
- To get there, of course, is not easy. We had the following logistics. In the village of Krasny Yar we boarded a boat and walked for about an hour and a half along the Bikin River against the current - so we ended up at the "central entrance" to the National Park *. Journalists, like tourists, can visit him only accompanied by specialists, usually Udege hunters.
From the "central entrance", where there is a checkpoint and where everyone should be marked in the visit log, we went into the park for an hour and a half of a boat trip to get to the Ulm cordon. There you can stop for the night and there is a trail. You go a kilometer among the cedars, you gain more meters 200 and you find yourself on the site with a beautiful panoramic view of Bikin.
But enough about logistics, let's talk about metaphysics. Of course, Bikin is mostly driven to go fishing. But as for me, fish is not the most important thing that can give those places. The most valuable there is silence. Enveloping, caressing hearing, it is especially pleasant after a constant technogenic interhum of the city and in general modern life. And the muttering of the boat motor there is perceived as part of the overall pleasant sound picture. The motor is silent and you start to hear only how the river gurgles around, the birds sing, breaking branches, flies the bear on their soft ass.
Beasts, by the way, are the most on the secluded banks of numerous Bikinsky ducts. You go into it, you muffle the engine, and you start listening and peering. From our city eyes and ears, the sense was not enough. But the conductor - hunter Andrew - somehow incredibly noticed invisible bears, traces of wapiti and other taiga shadows. He has lived all these things since childhood and feels the forest very subtly. It's so amazing to watch the other person literally flit among the elements that are militant to you personally. In every movement of the hunter there is some kind of lightness, calmness and experience of the centuries. Hands confidently hold the boat motor, pole, paddle, gun. What was perplexing or frightening at all, for example, a raging river or a sudden strand, and many other things, did not make even the corners of the eyes of our guides twitch.
With the company we are really very lucky. With our guides - two Andrews, I met in my last visit. Me and then they seemed like great guys. And this time it was easy and pleasant in the taiga. Their tranquility, the calmness of the centuries-old cedars around, the mist over the river - enveloping you with hot and sometimes icy streams, and you, floating on a boat among all this - that's for the sake of what moments it is worth living for.
The Udege people really live by the river and still use omorochki and bats. The omorochka, as before, is hollowed out of the trunk, but the bat has evolved over time, the shape has changed, the motor has appeared and so on. Udegeits rule the bat and the frost, like the gods. It looks very beautiful. I would do educational tours so that tourists would come for a while and learn how to manage a frostbite. I would go.
The guys, in addition, told a lot of interesting things. The Udege people have an interesting way of hunting. They put a frostbite (a small boat of linden) on a bat (a large boat of cedar, by the way), get to the duct, change into a frost and quietly quietly, almost noiselessly, walk along it along the channel. It is important to follow the beast against the wind, so that the wind blows off your scent. And all this is still so, and it's crazy to go easy! Somewhere a large hadron collider accelerates the Higgs boson, and somewhere the Udege on the omorochka against the wind follows the beast.
In the taiga, such a complicated life shrinks to the minimum set of simple rules and skills. As for me, the most important of them: not yours - do not take it. You can not hunt a stranger's land, you can not take the beast that was not extracted by you. This rule also works with tigers. For example, one hunter came across a beast, which the tiger prepared for dinner. The hunter took tiger prey and carried it to his winter quarters. The tiger tracked down the hunter and killed. Not yours - do not take it. Well, imagine, you are pouring yourself a glass of brandy, you have wanted it for a long time, and figs knows when else this cognac will be brought to your city. So, you put a glass on the veranda of your cozy family mansion, prepare to get high, and before that go out to wash your hands, and when you come back, the glass is drunk and you realize that it was the passing neighbor who was passing by. Now, you understand the tiger.
Well, seriously, in this untouched, unspoiled forest you think about many things and understand a lot. For example, hunters, "universities do not finish," think much broader and communicate with them a hundred times more interesting than with some of my friends, who have both the MBA and the Higher School of Economics on their shoulders, it can, and behind them, only in these acquaintances Life is no more. And there are hunters. And yet you begin to think how far we have left our roots, and in which direction did they go and should we leave?
In short, if you like silence and think - you in Bikin.
Help East Russia. National Park "Bikin" - specially protected natural area (PA) , Formed by the Resolution of the Government of the Russian Federation of 03.11.2015 No. 1187. The total area is 1 160 469 ha. The territory of the middle and upper Bikin in 2010 was included in the preliminary list of World Natural Heritage sites of UNESCO. The park is located in the northern part Primorye Territory в Pozharsky municipal district on the western macroslope of the ridge Sikhote-Alinh - the only major basin where large-scale logging has never been conducted. This is the largest protected area in the south The Far East And one of the largest national parks in Russia, in which the 51 species of mammals is identified. The Bikin National Park is one of the key habitats Amur tiger - here lives about 10% of the population of this subspecies. The list of birds includes 194 species, including at least 9, recorded in The Red Book of Russia (black stork, scaly crustacean, Fish eagle owl and etc.). There are registered 10 species of reptiles, 7 species of amphibians and 26 species of fish. It was here that by the middle of the last century one of the last foci of the Amur tiger habitat was preserved, thanks to which this unique cat was able to restore its area in Russia. Today, more than 40 Amur tigers live in the Park, which is 10% of the world number of this subspecies. The main part of populations of scaly crochet and fish eagle owls here also, the most remote spawning grounds of salmon river basins are located. Ussuri. Natural conditions and rich biological resources contributed to the formation of compact settlements Udege и Nanais , which lead on this territory a traditional way of life (hunting, fishing, gathering) for several centuries by nature-saving methods. Socio-economic and ethno-cultural analysis has shown that the Middle and Upper Bikin basin plays a key role in supporting communities of indigenous peoples and their cultural heritage.