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Mermaids and cold temptresses
By 8 March, women of Vladivostok were tempted by the sea fashion and the visit of the cult Italian photographer Jan Barbieri
The women of Vladivostok received a unique gift for March 8 in the form of a visit by the iconic Italian fashion-photographer, portrait photographer Jan Paolo Barbieri.
At the end of last week, he brought the exhibition “Fashion and Fiction” to the capital of Primorye - photographs of famous and not very beautiful women of different generations from the world of high fashion, film and choreography. The visit of the artist was organized by the Vladivostok Center for Contemporary Art "Zarya" together with the Moscow Multimedia-Art Museum.
Photographer, in love with the cinema
The early life of Jan Barbieri took place at 1950-60-s. After graduating from the Catholic University of Milan, where he was educated in the field of dramatic art, Paolo moved to Rome and began work at the largest Italian film studio Cinecitta. It was then, according to the photographer himself, he was bewitched by the universe of images seen in the films of such legendary filmmakers as Luchino Visconti and Federico Fellini, the masters of Italian surrealism in cinema. The future of the fashion fixture was also greatly impressed by the works of Vincent Minnelli, Alfred Hitchcock, Ernst Lubich. Many of his techniques he perfected, referring to such a retro-genre of American (mostly) cinema, as noir. This direction is characterized by unusual camera angles, black and white performance, gloomy tones and the image of women, like cold-blooded temptresses and bearers of some mystical, even demonic power.
All this was discovered in the works of Barbieri, beginning with the second half 60-x Years, when he opened his own studio and began to work fruitfully with fashionable houses-world brands: Valentino, Armani, Versace, Gianfranco Ferre, Yves Saint Laurent, Vivienne Westwood, and also to shoot for the legendary fashion edition Vogue.
Among the Barbieri female portraits included in the treasury of photo art of the twentieth century are images of such movie stars and supermodels as: Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn, Mirella Petteni, Maya Plisetskaya, Pellichiya Venetsiani, Monica Belucci and many others. The heroines of his many of his photo-works are the lesser-known and completely unknown women, who struck the author with their character types and individual beauty.
Today, Gian Paolo Barbieri, without breaking with the genre of female portrait and the world of high fashion, also realizes itself in the genre of travel photography, traveling a lot around the world.
In Vladivostok, the artist for the first time. And here he frankly said that he did not know yet whether Vladivostok or some woman’s image from these places would be captured in his works. “You see, in order to display a certain entity - be it a person, a city or a country - you need to get used to this image, to feel it. And for this, time is needed - from six months and even more, ”the master explained at a meeting with journalists during the presentation of his works at the Zarya Center for Contemporary Art. But the artist admitted that one feature of Vladivostok, firmly sunk into his mind - the fact that the city is the final (or initial) point of the great Trans-Siberian way.
A unique harmony with the exhibition "Fashion and fiction" was another exhibition, simultaneously opened with her - "Marine. The sea is in the fashion of the XX-XXI centuries ". It was the first in the cultural history of Primorye, an interdisciplinary composition about fashion, which combines photography, video, archive vintage and modern designer collections.
Opens the exhibition of the composition dedicated to Coco Chanel. An ingenious Frenchwoman at the dawn of the twenties blew up the world of women's fashion, bringing into it stylish elements from - purely male and brutal - naval uniforms. The most radically this image is reflected in the type created by stylist Aidar Sakhalov, photographer Andriy Yakovlev and hairdresser Oksana Zavarzina Model Alena Churakova deliberately colorfully embodied all the innovations of these modern masters.
As for more conceptual and even exotic manifestations of the entire exhibition, their correspondent. ER was explained by the exhibition curator Yulia Gordina, fashion journalist, creative consultant and producer - “I was inspired to create scenery for Morskoy by the show“ Chanel Spring-Summer-2012 ”, where there was an underwater scene with huge shells, caves, coral reef - all completely in white. In our cave there are many scaly textures of colored sequins, and the floors of the dresses resemble mermaid tails. The dress of the veteran of the English fashion John Rocha causes allusions with a huge jellyfish. .
An important exhibit is the Manish Arora coat. It is a serial dress though, but with a couture approach: all embroidery is done only manually and only by men - this is how it was established in India, the designer’s homeland. The coat is fantastic in terms of cut and material - on it a million silhouettes of bathers form a pattern - this is a completely hand-made appliqué of velvet with embroidery on the basis of silk. ”