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Mermaids and cold temptresses
By 8 March, women of Vladivostok were tempted by the sea fashion and the visit of the cult Italian photographer Jan Barbieri
By March 8, the women of Vladivostok received a peculiar gift in the form of a visit by the cult Italian fashion photographer, portrait photographer Gian Paolo Barbieri.
At the end of last week, he brought to the capital of Primorye an exhibition of his works "Fashion and Fiction" - photographs of famous and not so beautiful women of different generations from the world of haute couture, cinema and choreography. The artist's visit was organized by the Vladivostok Center for Contemporary Art “Zarya” in cooperation with the Moscow Multimedia Art Museum.
Photographer, in love with the cinema
Gian Barbieri's youth came in the 1950s and 60s. After graduating from the Catholic University of Milan, where he studied drama, Paolo moved to Rome and began work at the largest Italian film studio, Cinecitta. It was then, according to the photographer himself, that he was bewitched by the universe of images seen in the films of such legendary directors as Luchino Visconti and Federico Fellini, the masters of Italian surrealism in cinematography. The future fashion photographer was also impressed by the films of Vincent Minnelli, Alfred Hitchcock, Ernst Lubitsch. He refined many of his techniques, turning to such a retro genre of American (par excellence) cinema, like noir. This trend is characterized by unusual camera angles, black and white performance, gloomy tones and the image of women as cold-blooded temptresses and carriers of some mystical, even demonic power.
All this was revealed in the works of Barbieri, starting from the second half 60-x years, when, having opened his own studio, he began to fruitfully work with fashion houses-world brands: Valentino, Armani, Versace, Gianfranco Ferre, Yves Saint Laurent, Vivienne Westwood, as well as shoot for the legendary fashion publication Vogue.
Among the female portraits of Barbieri that entered the treasury of XNUMXth century photography are images of such movie stars and supermodels as Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn, Mirella Petteni, Maya Plisetskaya, Pellicia Veneziani, Monica Bellucci and many others. The heroines of many of his photographic works were also lesser-known and completely unknown women, who struck the author with the specificity of their types and individual beauty.
Today Gian Paolo Barbieri, without breaking with the genre of female portraiture and the world of haute couture, also realizes himself in the genre of travel photography, traveling a lot around the world.
The artist is in Vladivostok for the first time. And here he frankly said that he did not know yet whether Vladivostok or some female image from these places would be captured in his works. “You see, in order to reflect a certain essence - be it a person, city or country - you need to get used to this image, to feel it. And this requires time - from six months or more, ”the master explained at a meeting with journalists during the presentation of his works at the Zarya Center for Contemporary Art. However, the artist admitted that one feature of Vladivostok firmly sunk into his consciousness - the fact that the city is the final (or starting) point of the great Trans-Siberian route.
A kind of harmony with the exhibition "Fashion and Fiction" was formed by another exhibition that simultaneously opened with it - "Marine. The sea is in fashion of the XX-XXI centuries ”. She became the first interdisciplinary composition about fashion in the cultural history of Primorye, which combines photography, video, archive vintage and modern design collections.
The exhibition opens with a composition dedicated to Coco Chanel. The ingenious Frenchwoman at the dawn of the twenties blew up the world of women's fashion, bringing stylish elements from a purely masculine and brutal marine uniform. This image is most radically reflected in the type created by stylist Aydar Sakhalov, photographer Andrei Yakovlev and hairdresser Oksana Zavarzina. Alena Churakova's model deliberately and vividly embodied all the innovations of these modern masters.
As for the more conceptual and even exotic manifestations of the entire exposition, their corr. “ER” explained the curator of the exhibition Julia Gordin, fashion journalist, creative consultant and producer - “I was inspired to create the scenery for Morskoy by the show“ Chanel spring-summer 2012 ”, where there was an underwater stage with huge shells, caves, coral reef - everything is completely white. Our cave has a lot of scaly textures made of colored sequins, and the floors of the dresses are reminiscent of mermaid tails. The dress of the veteran of English fashion John Rocha evokes allusions with a huge jellyfish. ...
An important exhibit is the Manish Arora coat. Although this is a serial dress, but with a couture approach: all embroidery is done only by hand and only by men - this is the custom in India, in the homeland of the designer. The coat is fantastic in cut and material - on it a million silhouettes of bathers form a pattern - this is a completely hand-made velvet applique with embroidery on a silk base. "