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From Muravyov to Millionka - 1

Khabarovsk and Vladivostok are two rooms in one house. The wall of which is sometimes knocked with a hammer

In Khabarovsk, there is a metropolitan gloss that can not be knocked down by a midge or stuffiness. The streets are sedate, like the channel of the Cupid. In Vladivostok - a heap, a puff cake, the houses climb over the hills and are buried in fogs. All eternally somewhere they rush like shit-mouthed stung.

The capitals of the Primorsky and Khabarovsk Territories are the same antagonists as Moscow and St. Petersburg (by the way, they also got it in the article!), Only in the Far Eastern corner of the country. It has its own battle of shaverms and curbs, its own Sobyanins, and its comers in large numbers. We are separated by 760 km, a century and a half of rivalry and ... love, sometimes full of neighboring complexes. EastRussia held a virtual challenge, where people from different spheres answered 16 identical questions about Vladivostok and Khabarovsk. No representative sampling and attempts at objectivity - we shift all the responsibility to our interlocutors.

From Muravyov to Millionka - 1
Photo: collage East Russia
In parts 1 and 2 about "the best city of the Earth" (purely hypothetical, it may not be Vladivostok), say Khabarovsk Dina Voronkova (journalist, blogger):

Dina Voronkova9.jpg

Dmitry Bogdanchikov (businessman, resident of the IT cluster of the Skolkovo Foundation):


  и Anton Povreznyuk (photographer, manager of a climate company):

Anton Povreznyuk4.jpg 
In acts 3 and 4, which will follow, we will give the floor to the three Primorye residents. 

1. In your opinion, the city-avatar, the city of the postcard is ...

Victoria Berdysheva2.jpg
Photo: Vladivostok, Victoria Berdysheva

Photo: Khabarovsk,

Dinah: I do not foul one of the cities. By picturesqueness with a small margin will win Vladivostok, - due to the relief. Khabarovsk is flat and flat, and in Vladivostok you can not tell where the center is - and there, and here, and between there are incomprehensible passages, sometimes dirty and not well-groomed. But the outskirts in Vladivostok are not as sad as ours. In Khabarovsk the center is located on the same plane, it is clean and there is where to stroll. Judging from the old photographs, many trees were cut down in Khabarovsk, but even so it is greener than Vladivostok, where in the center of the parks I can only remember Pokrovsky. And so - a couple of stunted bushes. Here I plyusuyu for Khabarovsk, a city more well-groomed than Vladivostok, many flowers, at least in the center. But in Vladivostok, if you know the places or take a good guide, you can find more interesting. Especially now, when they hold the stamp before the summits.

Dmitriy: There are interesting points in Vladivostok, there is the sea, it in itself creates a certain view! The city is hilly, the layout is chaotic, multi-layered, if you look at Vladivostok through google-maps, you can see how everything winds around. Analogue of Sochi. Khabarovsk is also on the hills, but the city is clear and logical, and the terrain is flat. In terms of beauty, I would not single out any city - that in Khabarovsk everything is in order with gardening, there are many trees in the city, which is in Vladivostok, although there are fewer trees in the center of Vladivostok. The centers of both cities are clean, but there is a difference in approaches. There are fewer graffiti advertisements in Vladivostok that are sculpted on poles or houses. And the attitude to signs is different, shops and cafes are trying to make stylish and neat "outdoor". The subjective opinion that people there are more cherishing their city. And Khabarovsk is often included in the top of the most comfortable cities in Russia, but I would not say that it is fair.

Anton: I will say as a photographer: Vladivostok is more suitable for avatars and covers, because the sea is our everything! People go to the sea. Khabarovsk is also beautiful, but, let's be honest, it's Muramur, Karlamarla. I myself from Nakhodka, in Vladivostok, studied for five years on a marketer. The first time I came to Khabarovsk in 2008, I was led along the "red line", led to Gaidar Park, where all these figures, I thought: wow! It's super, it's cool! Because in Vladivostok at the time nothing like it was not, only the Old Town and Svetlanskaya. 

Over the past two years, I've been hanging Khabarovsk with a camera all the way, and that killed: how beautiful the same North, or Gaidar, and turn off from the stop Serysheva-Kalinina somewhere in the direction of the Nut Hills and everything, kapets! Bangladesh! I live on Topograf, there are two meters - and the private sector. The same is on the Soviet, on Prospect 60-anniversary of October. And in Vladivostok all the old clothes have already worn. Vladivostok is Gorky's "At the bottom," but I do not remember there are such chidrene as Birobidzhanskaya street in Khabarovsk.
The outskirts in Vladivostok have changed dramatically. The children's park, which was an analogue of the Khabarovsk "Fifth Site", was demolished, and everything was done beautifully. If our cities are on an equal footing in terms of cleanliness, then Vladivostok definitely wins in toilets. On the Embankment, every 10 meters, grandmothers sit by the booths. In Khabarovsk you want, excuse the expression, to pee, but nowhere. And so ... whoever wants to find dirt will find it everywhere. Once I heard a conversation between two ladies on a Khabarovsk bus: “You know, darling, I was in Paris, and I dare say it's such a cesspool, dark-skinned people, dirt, garbage! In Brussels - mud ... But we were in Vladivostok - summer, sea, so good, so clean! Then we arrived in Khabarovsk - so neatly! " Then my inner bear really played the balalaika.

2. Khabarovsk and Vladivostok: assess the quality of roads, driving style and public transport.

Photo: Market and parking in the area Fighters of the Revolution, Vladivostok, Pavel Korolyov

Dinah: As a motorist I will say that the condition of roads in Khabarovsk is good. But! In Vladivostok, you can get to a specific place only through one narrow two-lane road and you will not go anywhere, and in Khabarovsk you can maneuver, along a parallel street you can slip, hereоa greater scope for automotive creativity. The state of roads in Vladivostok has improved after the summits, and the center is normal, and the outskirts are patched up. I started driving in Vladivostok, and when I moved to Khabarovsk, for the first time with bulging eyes I went and I still go, although four years have passed ...

I do not understand how you can SUCH on the roads! There is also a dwelling in Vladivostok, but in Khabarovsk so stupid foolishness, red, it's almost yellow, which means - green, you can move. To pass a person here in general, in principle, do not know how, if from a secondary road you try to taxi out, they will specially give gas to not miss you! I do not know why. There are more auto-cars in Khabarovsk and the mentality is different, it's something half-angular, you die today, and I-tomorrow. Vladivostok is more generous. I was once cut in Vladivostok only to teach me a lesson when I blunted on the road. And in Khabarovsk, eternal attempts to prove something. 

I have not used public transport in Khabarovsk for a long time. I think, fortunately. When my mother came to Vladivostok to me, she was surprised how it is - people go into the back door, go out into the hall, pay the driver, and no one runs away. For her, it was a shock. And in Khabarovsk, of course, these insane conductors, who sometimes rammed the bus with their bodies, yell, if anything goes wrong. When I went earlier, it was killing me. Bus racing in Vladivostok, too, is, but not so. The trip has always been more expensive in Khabarovsk, but we can travel by public transport to any place, and in Vladik there are places where it is difficult to get to or difficult, therefore we need a car. 
Dmitriy: In Vladivostok, winding streets, hills, narrow sidewalks, sometimes the road - a meter from home. In Khabarovsk, the sidewalks are much wider. In winter, in Vladivostok, without an all-wheel drive car, it is difficult to navigate ice, and there every winter there is a road "bowling". There are fewer cars in Khabarovsk, but drivers are unpredictable. And in Vladivostok there are more cars than we have, so the car culture is more developed, all try to give in to each other. I will not say about public transport, I go by my own.

Anton: In Vladivostok, I did not go as a driver, but I rode a lot like a passenger. On the one hand, this is: "The opera house, where are we going to ?!", and on the other, according to the rules, you can not go, you will immediately pick off. As in China, the main thing is to integrate into the flow. The morons on the road are enough everywhere, but in Khabarovsk they follow the rules more, and the crazy zigzag-makkryaks are more in Vladivostok. I first heard the phrase in Khabarovsk: two mountains, three holes, neighing like a seaside. When people in the Khabarovsk Territory speak to me, especially the Komsomol members: "And in Khabarovsk hills!" Is also ridiculous. I remember perfectly Vladivostok, Chasovitina Street, it's upstairs, and down to School School was the 93 bus. This minibus flies, winds, an attraction! Total for 15 at that time. Or folk rear-wheel drive Mark II. Hills in Vladivostok produce a special style of driving. 

I think many remember the ex-mayor of Vladivostok Viktor Ivanovich Cherepkov, a legendary personality. The first thing he did was to abolish the fares on trams and trolleybuses. This was not the case in Khabarovsk! In the hungry student years, when we cook soup, we take carrots from the girls in one room, potatoes in the other, and we will see the meat in the picture, but we need to somehow get to school, if the tram and trolleybus did not go, we got by train. The Vladivostok hare is the fastest, I can tell you +100500 ways to avoid controllers! And girls-conductors are still working in Khabarovsk.

3. Compare the standard of living and salaries in Vladivostok and Khabarovsk.

Photo: In the central market of Khabarovsk. Lena Vertyankina.

Dinah: When I lived in Vladivostok, it was more expensive than Khabarovsk. My mother came to see me, she was in a panic, seeing the prices for food and gasoline! As for salaries, everything depends on the sphere of employment, and there is no fundamental difference between our cities.

Dmitriy: The prices for products in Khabarovsk and Vladivostok are about the same, I will not say about living and communal services, I lived in Vladivostok only in hotels. In Primorye, life, in theory, should be a little cheaper, because the climate is warmer.

Anton: If there is no water in the faucet, and there is current in the socket ... In 2008, the most expensive apartment in Vladik was a hotel. One-room apartment cost 2 million rubles. It was before the crisis. By the food basket - Remy is from Primorye, Ekonomych and Sambury there, too, and the network operators prices are about the same, plus or minus. In Khabarovsk for obscham I did not jump much. I remember 90, the queue at the waterway, it was Vladivostok. In Khabarovsk, too, there were water shortages, but not so global. 

The price list for housing and communal services and rental housing, it seems to me, in Khabarovsk is lower. In Vladivostok to find a one-room apartment for 13-15 thousand - from the category of fantasy, there for 20 thousand rubles. only the living room can be rented. A moment of grooming: in Vladivostok there is such a thing as khakhashka, this is a hostel, it is a dormitory. These are workers' hostels with completely killed entrances. Why hahashka, because in the 90s they sold drugs there. And recently in Berezovka I go into the entrance, there are pictures hanging, there are flowers, rugs, everything is clean and tidy - I don't even want to swear! Here Khabarovsk is definitely the winner. In Vladik all the gossip of the entrance was on the walls: "Ivanova the harlot" or "lover of persons of the same sex Petrov" ...

4. What is unique, in your opinion, is in Vladivostok, which is not in Khabarovsk, and vice versa?

Photo: drawing in one of the entrances of Vladivostok. Lena Vertyankina

Dinah: And what about us, in Khabarovsk? In general, this is all patchwork patriotism, disputes - who is better, who is steeper ... Especially, on a national scale, you will excuse me! This is all one, the same taiga, fish. For me that Khabarovsk, that Vladivostok - two native homes. Or even two rooms in the same house.

Dmitriy: Of course, in Primorye - the sea, the opportunity to relax on it, without leaving far from the city. This is a port, it is a milder climate. Without the sea, the whole feature of Vladivostok would be lost, there would be a big city on the hills with an uncomfortable layout, and the attraction for living would fall sharply. In general, I do not advocate an intense competition between cities, each in its own way is unique.      

Anton: Pyanse is a purely Vladivostok feature, yes, it is in Khabarovsk, and it is actually Sakhalin, but how is it cooked in Vladik! In general, tourists from Baikal begin to look at the Far East with crazed eyes. You cross the Ural Mountains, and there is nothing further, taiga, bears roam around the cities. And so the Primorye have the sea, we have the great Russian river Amur. We have the largest churches in the Far East. There are churches in Vladivostok, I only know where FENU is. But in Vladivostok there is a Lutheran Church, it is very beautiful.

5. If you were given the right to choose a place for the capital of the Far East, which city would you put (a)?

Amur Irina Fastovets.jpg
Photo: Khabarovsk amid the Cupid. Irina Fastovets

Victoria Berdysheva4.jpgPhoto: Vladivostok. Victoria Berdysheva

Dinah: About Khabarovsk say that this city of officials and military. Each has its own role. I do not see any advantages from the status of the capital, I would leave everything as it is.

Dmitriy: Where there is more turnover, population, economic activity - by such criteria it is necessary to choose. Khabarovsk place no, then what? Cupid, China "across the road," Vladivostok is the same, plus a seaport and a fleet base! From a strategic point of view, Vladivostok would be more logical to appoint the capital, next to South Korea, China and Japan, and more flights to different countries of the world than from Khabarovsk. The airport is more modern.

Anton: I would move the capital to the city of Amursk. The first thing a resident of Amursk can do is to escape from Amursk. Just kidding. It is far from a potential enemy, and the city is beautiful. And, maybe, then there will finally make roads, now they are "farewell, suspension!"  

6. How in Vladivostok and Khabarovsk affairs with culture and sports?

Photo Shoot: Khabarovsk Youth Theater.

Dinah: There is more musical movement in Vladivostok, rock, and all that. As for the theater of my beloved, in Vladivostok, I could not walk through theaters, the child was small, so I can not really compare. In Khabarovsk there is a Theater for Young People, which can be proud of! And in Vladivostok - the festival "Pacific Meridian", it is brighter and more interesting than what is taking place in Khabarovsk. It seems that the Khabarovsk festivals are on their own, do not affect the whole city, when it boils, boils, everyone disappears days and nights at shows. In Vladivostok, I think, more grateful audience, so it's easier to stir up something and get a response. However, in Vladivostok I was always surprised by the Central Square, where agricultural fairs are held, carrots and potatoes are sold. On Lenin's Square in Khabarovsk it is unthinkable! And there the square dangles all year round, like a tail does not sew a mare, will hold a couple of fairs, a Christmas tree will be put, not always even an ice town is like us.

Dmitriy: There are more exhibitions in Vladivostok, unlike Khabarovsk, there is an IMAX cinema. If someone goes on tour in the Far East, in any case, they capture both Vladivostok and Khabarovsk, because the population is equal. Such a subjective moment: many say that creative people are more comfortable in Vladik. And, since I am an athlete, it is important for me that there are much more sporting events in Vladivostok. This is my pain as a Khabarovsk resident. If only you are a hockey player with a ball, then in Khabarovsk you have an advantage. But I am an athlete, and Vladivostok is good with it, I was at the ice half marathon "Vladivostok Ice Run" 2018 in winter, a very cool event! In autumn, they hold the international marathon "Bridges of Vladivostok" (will take place on September 22, 2018), run across the city and the bridge, this is also an international event. On jet skis, they constantly hold competitions, again, a prim-ring for racers, also cool entertainment and a racing track, we don't have this in Khabarovsk. What kind of officials like what kind of sport is developing in the city. Ours like hockey with a ball, with a puck, we have these arenas appear. And the track and field arena is in a terrible state.  

Anton: If hockey, then this is definitely Khabarovsk. Primorsky HC "Admiral" is a pathetic parody of HC "Amur", they did it ugly. We built “Fesco Hall” and “Fetisov-Arena”, in this respect they were equal. In terms of cultural life, Khabarovsk groups known in Russia are only Anton Belyaev, Terr Meitz. And Vladivostok is Mumiy Troll. The very atmosphere of the sea city - heee! And Khabarovsk is more patriarchal, and this leaves an imprint on cultural life. Athletes are there and there. Komsomol member Ivan Shtyl started in Vladivostok, trained in Khabarovsk, travels throughout the Far East.   
7. On the largest banknotes in the country, 2 bridges are now portrayed - Primorsky and Khabarovsk. Which is cooler?
Artem Monakhov
Photo: "5-thousandth" bridge across the Amur. Artem Monakhov

Vladivostok 2000.jpg
Photo: New banknote of 2000 rubles. and a bridge to the Russian island.  

Dinah: Different functions, different history. Here, excuse me, this is the only road that connects us to the rest of the country. And in Vladivostok every time I drive through these bridges, my spirit takes me! As far as this miracle is man-made, how it could be done, to implement. On the opening day, I walked along this "golden" bridge, this was an event. Pure delight.

Dmitriy: I did not reflect on this topic, but the bridge to the Russian Island is very picturesque.

Anton: In Khabarovsk there is a bridge - well, a bridge, well, yes, we're going. I rode a bicycle, a car. You go - and the trains go under you. The bridge is like a bridge. And in Vladivostok, why is the bridge "wow", because they were going to build it since the time of the tsar-father. Again, "the bloody tyrant Putin brought the country," but the bridge was finally built. I remember 2004, when I worked in a children's park, where the Meridian Hotel is now. It was snowing, and I needed to get home to the center. For four hours I was driving along Lugovaya by bus, then for another couple of hours I walked home, because Sportivka is always there. This bridge unloaded Sportivka. Bridge of the Jewish Autonomous Region - Khabarovsk Territory, as if it had always been. But without the wow effect. In Vladivostok, Russky would have remained an island, and there would be no FEFU if there were no bridges.

8. Where - in Khabarovsk or in Vladivostok - more foreigners?

Photo: Muravyeva-Amursky St. in Khabarovsk. Lena Vertyankina

Dinah: I had my own personal foreigner. A sign of Vladivostok: when foreign sailors appear in the city, it means that spring has come. There are more opportunities, the city is easy to climb, and more foreigners go there.     

Dmitriy: There are more foreigners in Vladivostok, there is a port city. The liners moored with cruises. Again, we return to the sea, it is a key advantage. To us, bring the sea to Khabarovsk, the smartest city will be! Probably, it's time to pour the Cupid.

Anton: There are definitely more foreigners in Vladivostok. Chinese, Koreans, Japanese, African Americans come across. For some reason, ships do not enter Khabarovsk harbor, but there are always some ships, megalaynery, take the same "Princess". In Khabarovsk, the Chinese and Koreans.

9. Taste the theme of catering and cuisine?

Photo: crab. Source

Dinah: In Vladivostok, I think, more experiments, more often something is being discovered. There I really like Indian Cafe, as well as Chinese and Korean cuisines. Every time we are, we go there with pleasure.

Dmitriy: In Vladivostok, I can note a greater variety of cafes, restaurants and hotels than in Khabarovsk.

Anton: I know one Italian cafe on Karl Marx, that's all. If you want to eat cheap, then this is not Vladivostok! What I really like there, it's five o'clock. Previously, there was a chic canteen "Bamboo", now it's not there, and you can find a canteen to a tourist from the "100 $ for a week" series only in two places. In Khabarovsk, it is easier and more interesting with this, take a network of canteens "Spoon", "Bread place", "Birfest", "Kopeyka". Although there are more cafes in Vladik, they are there in every second door. On Sportivke there is a lot of chifanek where everyone goes, from a simple student Valery to businessman Ivan Petrovich, and there you can touch real Chinese cuisine, in Khabarovsk, to be honest, I do not know that. 

In Khabarovsk, however, such phenomenon as "Sultan Bazaar", "Pani Fazani", "VDrova", I read interviews with them, people are torn off completely! Business was created almost on the knee, living in the garage, Respect to them and uvazhuha. There you can not only eat, there performance. In Vladik I do not know this, but there is a rock cafe, a bar "Mumiy Troll". In general, if I'm alone in the city, in Vladivostok, I eat a pic-se on Fokin Street, in Khabarovsk I go to the "Bread Place". Service level is approximately equal. Worse with public catering in small towns such as Partizansk.

To be continued.
September 22: current information on coronavirus in the Far East
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