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From Muravyov to Millionka - 1

Khabarovsk and Vladivostok are two rooms in one house. The wall of which is sometimes knocked with a hammer

In Khabarovsk, there is a metropolitan gloss that can not be knocked down by a midge or stuffiness. The streets are sedate, like the channel of the Cupid. In Vladivostok - a heap, a puff cake, the houses climb over the hills and are buried in fogs. All eternally somewhere they rush like shit-mouthed stung.

The capitals of the Primorsky and Khabarovsk Territories are the same antagonists as Moscow and Peter (they, incidentally, also got it!), Only in the far eastern corner of the country. Here its battle of shaverm and curbs, its Sobyanin, and their come in large numbers. We are divided 760 km, a century and a half of rivalry and ... love, sometimes full of neighborhood complexes. EastRussia held a virtual meeting, where people from different spheres responded to 16 with the same questions about Vladivostok and Khabarovsk. No representative sampling and attempts at objectivity - we shift all responsibility to our interlocutors.

From Muravyov to Millionka - 1
Photo: collage East Russia
In parts 1 and 2 about "the best city of the Earth" (purely hypothetical, it may not be Vladivostok), say Khabarovsk Dina Voronkova (journalist, blogger):

Dina Voronkova9.jpg

Dmitry Bogdanchikov (businessman, resident of the IT cluster of the Skolkovo Foundation):


и Anton Povreznyuk (photographer, climate company manager):

Anton Povreznyuk4.jpg
In the acts of 3 and 4, which will follow, we will give the floor to the three of Primorye.

1. In your opinion, the city-avatar, the city of the postcard is ...

Victoria Berdysheva2.jpg
Photo: Vladivostok, Victoria Berdysheva

Photo: Khabarovsk,

Dinah: I do not foul one of the cities. By picturesqueness with a small margin will win Vladivostok, - due to the relief. Khabarovsk is flat and flat, and in Vladivostok you can not tell where the center is - and there, and here, and between there are incomprehensible passages, sometimes dirty and not well-groomed. But the outskirts in Vladivostok are not as sad as ours. In Khabarovsk the center is located on the same plane, it is clean and there is where to stroll. Judging from the old photographs, many trees were cut down in Khabarovsk, but even so it is greener than Vladivostok, where in the center of the parks I can only remember Pokrovsky. And so - a couple of stunted bushes. Here I plyusuyu for Khabarovsk, a city more well-groomed than Vladivostok, many flowers, at least in the center. But in Vladivostok, if you know the places or take a good guide, you can find more interesting. Especially now, when they hold the stamp before the summits.

Dmitriy: In Vladivostok there are interesting points, there is the sea, it in itself creates a certain kind! The city is hilly, the layout is chaotic, multilayered, if you look at Vladivostok through google maps, you can see how everything winds. An analogue of Sochi. Khabarovsk is also in the hills, but the city is clear and logical, and the terrain is flat. In terms of beauty, I would not single out a city - that everything is in order in Khabarovsk with gardening, there are a lot of trees in the city, in Vladivostok, although there are fewer trees in the center of Vladivostok. In the centers of both cities it is clean, but there is a difference in approaches. Ads that are molded on poles or houses, graffiti in Vladivostok is less. And the attitude to the signs is different, shops and cafes try to make a stylish and accurate "dressing room." A subjective opinion is that there people tend to take care of their city. And Khabarovsk is often included in the top of the most comfortable cities in Russia, but I would not say that it's fair.

Anton: I will say as a photographer: Vladivostok is more suitable for avatars and covers, because the sea is our everything! People go to the sea. Khabarovsk is also beautiful, but, let's be honest, it's Muramur, Karlamarla. I myself from Nakhodka, in Vladivostok, studied for five years on a marketer. The first time I came to Khabarovsk in 2008, I was led along the "red line", led to Gaidar Park, where all these figures, I thought: wow! It's super, it's cool! Because in Vladivostok at the time nothing like it was not, only the Old Town and Svetlanskaya.

Over the past two years, I've been hanging Khabarovsk with a camera all the way, and that killed: how beautiful the same North, or Gaidar, and turn off from the stop Serysheva-Kalinina somewhere in the direction of the Nut Hills and everything, kapets! Bangladesh! I live on Topograf, there are two meters - and the private sector. The same is on the Soviet, on Prospect 60-anniversary of October. And in Vladivostok all the old clothes have already worn. Vladivostok is Gorky's "At the bottom," but I do not remember there are such chidrene as Birobidzhanskaya street in Khabarovsk.

The outskirts in Vladivostok have changed very much. The children's park, which was an analogue of the Khabarovsk "Fifth platform", was demolished, and everything was done beautifully. If the cleanliness of our cities are on an equal footing, then, of course, Vladivostok wins by the toilets. On the Quay every 10 meters the grandmothers are sitting by the booths. In Khabarovsk, you want, sorry for the expression, pee, but nowhere. And so ... who wants to find mud, everywhere he finds. Once I heard a conversation between two ladies in a Khabarovsk bus: "You know, dear, I was in Paris, and, I dare say, it's such a cloak, dark-skinned, mud, garbage! In Brussels - dirt ... But we were in Vladivostok - summer, the sea, so well, so clean! Then they came to Khabarovsk - so neatly! "Then my inner bear really started playing the balalaika.

2. Khabarovsk and Vladivostok: assess the quality of roads, driving style and public transport.

Photo: Market and parking in the area Fighters of the Revolution, Vladivostok, Pavel Korolyov

Dinah: As a motorist I will say that the condition of roads in Khabarovsk is good. But! In Vladivostok, you can get to a specific place only through one narrow two-lane road and you will not go anywhere, and in Khabarovsk you can maneuver, along a parallel street you can slip, hereоa greater scope for automotive creativity. The state of roads in Vladivostok has improved after the summits, and the center is normal, and the outskirts are patched up. I started driving in Vladivostok, and when I moved to Khabarovsk, for the first time with bulging eyes I went and I still go, although four years have passed ...

I do not understand how you can SUCH on the roads! There is also a dwelling in Vladivostok, but in Khabarovsk so stupid foolishness, red, it's almost yellow, which means - green, you can move. To pass a person here in general, in principle, do not know how, if from a secondary road you try to taxi out, they will specially give gas to not miss you! I do not know why. There are more auto-cars in Khabarovsk and the mentality is different, it's something half-angular, you die today, and I-tomorrow. Vladivostok is more generous. I was once cut in Vladivostok only to teach me a lesson when I blunted on the road. And in Khabarovsk, eternal attempts to prove something.

I have not used public transport in Khabarovsk for a long time. I think, fortunately. When my mother came to Vladivostok to me, she was surprised how it is - people go into the back door, go out into the hall, pay the driver, and no one runs away. For her, it was a shock. And in Khabarovsk, of course, these insane conductors, who sometimes rammed the bus with their bodies, yell, if anything goes wrong. When I went earlier, it was killing me. Bus racing in Vladivostok, too, is, but not so. The trip has always been more expensive in Khabarovsk, but we can travel by public transport to any place, and in Vladik there are places where it is difficult to get to or difficult, therefore we need a car.

Dmitriy: In Vladivostok, winding streets, hills, narrow sidewalks, sometimes the road - a meter from home. In Khabarovsk, the sidewalks are much wider. In winter, in Vladivostok, without an all-wheel drive car, it is difficult to navigate ice, and there every winter there is a road "bowling". There are fewer cars in Khabarovsk, but drivers are unpredictable. And in Vladivostok there are more cars than we have, so the car culture is more developed, all try to give in to each other. I will not say about public transport, I go by my own.

Anton: In Vladivostok, I did not go as a driver, but I rode a lot like a passenger. On the one hand, this is: "The opera house, where are we going to ?!", and on the other, according to the rules, you can not go, you will immediately pick off. As in China, the main thing is to integrate into the flow. The morons on the road are enough everywhere, but in Khabarovsk they follow the rules more, and the crazy zigzag-makkryaks are more in Vladivostok. I first heard the phrase in Khabarovsk: two mountains, three holes, neighing like a seaside. When people in the Khabarovsk Territory speak to me, especially the Komsomol members: "And in Khabarovsk hills!" Is also ridiculous. I remember perfectly Vladivostok, Chasovitina Street, it's upstairs, and down to School School was the 93 bus. This minibus flies, winds, an attraction! Total for 15 at that time. Or folk rear-wheel drive Mark II. Hills in Vladivostok produce a special style of driving.

I think that many remember the ex-mayor of Vladivostok Viktor Ivanovich Cherepkov, the person is legendary. The first thing he did was to cancel the fare for trams and trolleybuses. In Khabarovsk this was not! In the hungry college years, when we cook soup, we take carrots in one room for girls, in the other - potatoes, and we'll see the meat in the picture, but we need to get to the school somehow, if the tram and trolley bus did not go, we got by train. Vladivostok hare is the fastest, I can tell + 100500 ways to avoid controllers! And in Khabarovsk girls-conductors are still working.

3. Compare the standard of living and salaries in Vladivostok and Khabarovsk.

Photo: In the central market of Khabarovsk. Lena Vertyankina.

Dinah: When I lived in Vladivostok, it was more expensive than Khabarovsk. My mother came to see me, she was in a panic, seeing the prices for food and gasoline! As for salaries, everything depends on the sphere of employment, and there is no fundamental difference between our cities.

Dmitriy: The prices for products in Khabarovsk and Vladivostok are about the same, I will not say about living and communal services, I lived in Vladivostok only in hotels. In Primorye, life, in theory, should be a little cheaper, because the climate is warmer.

Anton: If there is no water in the faucet, and there is current in the socket ... In 2008, the most expensive apartment in Vladik was a hotel. One-room apartment cost 2 million rubles. It was before the crisis. By the food basket - Remy is from Primorye, Ekonomych and Sambury there, too, and the network operators prices are about the same, plus or minus. In Khabarovsk for obscham I did not jump much. I remember 90, the queue at the waterway, it was Vladivostok. In Khabarovsk, too, there were water shortages, but not so global.

Price list for housing and communal services and rental housing, I think in Khabarovsk below. In Vladivostok find for 13-15 thousand one-room apartment - from the category of fiction, there for 20 thousand rubles. you can rent only the hotel. Moment of grooming: in Vladivostok there is such a thing as hahashka, it's a hostel, it's a gostinka. These are working dorms with completely destroyed entrances. Why hahashka, because in 90 there was a drug deal. And recently in Berezovka I go into the entrance, hang pictures, there are flowers, rugs, everything is clean and tidy - even do not want to swear! Here unequivocally in a prize Khabarovsk. In Vladik all the secular chronicle of the porch was on the walls: "the harlot of Ivanov" or "the lover of the persons of his sex Petrov" ...

4. What is unique, in your opinion, is in Vladivostok, which is not in Khabarovsk, and vice versa?

Photo: drawing in one of the entrances of Vladivostok. Lena Vertyankina

Dinah: And what about us, in Khabarovsk? In general, this is all patchwork patriotism, disputes - who is better, who is steeper ... Especially, on a national scale, you will excuse me! This is all one, the same taiga, fish. For me that Khabarovsk, that Vladivostok - two native homes. Or even two rooms in the same house.

Dmitriy: Of course, in Primorye - the sea, the opportunity to relax on it, without leaving far from the city. This is a port, it is a milder climate. Without the sea, the whole feature of Vladivostok would be lost, there would be a big city on the hills with an uncomfortable layout, and the attraction for living would fall sharply. In general, I do not advocate an intense competition between cities, each in its own way is unique.

Anton: Pyanse is a pure Vladivostok chip, yes, it is in Khabarovsk, and it is actually Sakhalin, but how it is cooked in Vladik! In general, tourists from Baikal are beginning to look at the Far East with stunned eyes. You cross the Ural Mountains, and there's nothing further, the taiga, the bears are rushing through the cities. And so the Primors have a sea, we have a great Russian river Amur. We have the largest temples in the Far East. In Vladivostok the same church, I alone know where FENU. But in Vladivostok there is a Lutheran church, it is very beautiful.

5. If you were given the right to choose a place for the capital of the Far East, which city would you put (a)?

Amur Irina Fastovets.jpg
Photo: Khabarovsk amid the Cupid. Irina Fastovets

Victoria Berdysheva4.jpgPhoto: Vladivostok. Victoria Berdysheva

Dinah: About Khabarovsk say that this city of officials and military. Each has its own role. I do not see any advantages from the status of the capital, I would leave everything as it is.

Dmitriy: Where there is more turnover, population, economic activity - by such criteria it is necessary to choose. Khabarovsk place no, then what? Cupid, China "across the road," Vladivostok is the same, plus a seaport and a fleet base! From a strategic point of view, Vladivostok would be more logical to appoint the capital, next to South Korea, China and Japan, and more flights to different countries of the world than from Khabarovsk. The airport is more modern.

Anton: I would move the capital to the city of Amursk. The first thing a resident of Amursk can do is to escape from Amursk. Just kidding. It is far from a potential enemy, and the city is beautiful. And, maybe, then there will finally make roads, now they are "farewell, suspension!"

6. How in Vladivostok and Khabarovsk affairs with culture and sports?

Photo Shoot: Khabarovsk Youth Theater.

Dinah: There is more musical movement in Vladivostok, rock, and all that. As for the theater of my beloved, in Vladivostok, I could not walk through theaters, the child was small, so I can not really compare. In Khabarovsk there is a Theater for Young People, which can be proud of! And in Vladivostok - the festival "Pacific Meridian", it is brighter and more interesting than what is taking place in Khabarovsk. It seems that the Khabarovsk festivals are on their own, do not affect the whole city, when it boils, boils, everyone disappears days and nights at shows. In Vladivostok, I think, more grateful audience, so it's easier to stir up something and get a response. However, in Vladivostok I was always surprised by the Central Square, where agricultural fairs are held, carrots and potatoes are sold. On Lenin's Square in Khabarovsk it is unthinkable! And there the square dangles all year round, like a tail does not sew a mare, will hold a couple of fairs, a Christmas tree will be put, not always even an ice town is like us.

Dmitriy: In Vladivostok more exhibitions, unlike Khabarovsk, there is a cinema IMAX. If someone is traveling with a tour of the Far East, in any case, captures and Vladivostok, and Khabarovsk, because the population is equal. Such a subjective moment: many say that in Vladik, creative people are more comfortable. And, as I am an athlete, it is important for me that there are much more sporting events in Vladivostok. It's direct my pain as a Khabarovsk. If only you are a hockey player with a ball, then you have an advantage in Khabarovsk. But I'm an athlete, and in Vladivostok this is good, I was in the winter half-marathon "Vladivostok Ice Run" 2018, a very cool event! In the autumn, they hold an international marathon "Bridges of Vladivostok" (22 September 2018), run through the city and the bridge, this is also an international event. On the hydrocycles they have competitions are constantly held, again, prim rating for racing drivers, also cool entertainment and a racing circuit, we do not have such a thing in Khabarovsk. What officials like what sports like, and this is developing in the city. Our people like ice hockey, with a puck, we have these arenas. A track-and-field arena in terrible condition.

Anton: If hockey, then this is, unequivocally, Khabarovsk. Seaside HC "Admiral" - a pitiful parody of HC "Cupid", ugly did it. Have built "Fesco Hall" and "Fetisov-arena", in this respect equal. In terms of cultural life, Khabarovsk groups known in Russia are only Anton Belyaev, Terr Meitz. And Vladivostok is the Mummy Troll. The very atmosphere of the sea city - heeey! And Khabarovsk is more patriarchal, and this leaves an imprint on cultural life. Athletes are there and there. Komsomol member Ivan Shtyl started in Vladivostok, trained in Khabarovsk, traveled throughout the Far East.

7. On the largest banknotes in the country, 2 bridges are now portrayed - Primorsky and Khabarovsk. Which is cooler?
Artem Monakhov
Photo: "5-thousandth" bridge across the Amur. Artem Monakhov

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Photo: New note 2000 руб. and a bridge to the Russian Island.

Dinah: Different functions, different history. Here, excuse me, this is the only road that connects us to the rest of the country. And in Vladivostok every time I drive through these bridges, my spirit takes me! As far as this miracle is man-made, how it could be done, to implement. On the opening day, I walked along this "golden" bridge, this was an event. Pure delight.

Dmitriy: I did not reflect on this topic, but the bridge to the Russian Island is very picturesque.

Anton: In Khabarovsk, a bridge - well, a bridge, yes, we're going. I went by bicycle on the car. You go - and under you trains go. Bridge as a bridge. And in Vladivostok, the bridge is why "wow", because it was going to be built since the time of the tsar-father. Again, "the bloody tyrant Putin brought the country", but the bridge was finally built. I remember 2004 year, I worked then in the children's park, where now the hotel "Meridian". It was snowing, and I had to get home to the center. For four hours I rode along the bus to Lugovoi, then I went to the house for a couple of hours, because Sportivka always stands. This bridge unloaded the Sportivka. The bridge of the EAO is the Khabarovsk Territory, as if it were always there. But without the wow effect. In Vladivostok, Russian would remain an island, and there would not have been FEFU, if there were no bridges.

8. Where - in Khabarovsk or in Vladivostok - more foreigners?

Photo: Muravyeva-Amursky St. in Khabarovsk. Lena Vertyankina

Dinah: I had my own personal foreigner. The sign of Vladivostok: when foreign sailors appear in the city, it means spring has come. There are more opportunities, the city is easy to climb, and more foreigners go there.

Dmitriy: There are more foreigners in Vladivostok, there is a port city. The liners moored with cruises. Again, we return to the sea, it is a key advantage. To us, bring the sea to Khabarovsk, the smartest city will be! Probably, it's time to pour the Cupid.

Anton: There are definitely more foreigners in Vladivostok. Chinese, Koreans, Japanese, African Americans come across. For some reason, ships do not enter Khabarovsk harbor, but there are always some ships, megalaynery, take the same "Princess". In Khabarovsk, the Chinese and Koreans.

9. Taste the theme of catering and cuisine?

Photo: crab. Source

Dinah: In Vladivostok, I think, more experiments, more often something is being discovered. There I really like Indian Cafe, as well as Chinese and Korean cuisines. Every time we are, we go there with pleasure.

Dmitriy: In Vladivostok, I can note a greater variety of cafes, restaurants and hotels than in Khabarovsk.

Anton: I know one Italian cafe on Karl Marx, that's all. If you want to eat cheap, then this is not Vladivostok! What I really like there, it's five o'clock. Previously, there was a chic canteen "Bamboo", now it's not there, and you can find a canteen to a tourist from the "100 $ for a week" series only in two places. In Khabarovsk, it is easier and more interesting with this, take a network of canteens "Spoon", "Bread place", "Birfest", "Kopeyka". Although there are more cafes in Vladik, they are there in every second door. On Sportivke there is a lot of chifanek where everyone goes, from a simple student Valery to businessman Ivan Petrovich, and there you can touch real Chinese cuisine, in Khabarovsk, to be honest, I do not know that.

In Khabarovsk, however, such phenomenon as "Sultan Bazaar", "Pani Fazani", "VDrova", I read interviews with them, people are torn off completely! Business was created almost on the knee, living in the garage, Respect to them and uvazhuha. There you can not only eat, there performance. In Vladik I do not know this, but there is a rock cafe, a bar "Mumiy Troll". In general, if I'm alone in the city, in Vladivostok, I eat a pic-se on Fokin Street, in Khabarovsk I go to the "Bread Place". Service level is approximately equal. Worse with public catering in small towns such as Partizansk.

To be continued.
October 1: current information on coronavirus in the Far East
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