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PE and "Fool from the North"
Chukchi bloggers reached Zen with limited Internet
Media coverage in the polar night, under the northern lights and crazy yuzhak. This winter, the Khlebnikovs from Pevek rocked Russian social media. No hype - only sincere stories about the northernmost city in the country. In his free time, the accountant and event manager maintain a public Vkontakte, original channels on Youtube and Yandex.Dzena.
- Fervent greetings from the cold Chukotka! Tired of haypovy topics? Tired of the Challenges, Tops and other mainstream? You already know how easy it is to earn on the Internet without attachments, but about Chukotka do not know practically nothing? Then welcome to our channel! From Chukotka with Love! - so salute subscribers Efim and Valeria ("Fima Psyna" and "Fool from the North"), on your page new service of a major search engine. Their project works on the DIY principle, from the English. movement "Do It Youself»And Indie, that is, regardless of financial support from outside.
Officially, Lera works as an editor at the Pevek television studio, Yefim is a bookkeeper at Navport Pevek JSC.
ZEEN AND HELEN
EFIM: I was born, grew up, and almost all my life I spent in Chukotka. Lera rushed after me like a faithful wife of the Decembrist. We met in Voronezh, the fate has developed so that we have some common friends at some moment. We 8 years have come to the point of being together. She's in Pevek for a year and a half. Lera graduated from Voronezh State University, I am an international institute of computer technologies. With Yandex.Dzen we happened, as with a waving wing of the butterfly, which gives rise to a typhoon at the other end of the Earth. A year and a half ago I started to keep public on Vkontakte Pevek-native city. I was looking for a hobby, and there just needed an active administrator, because the activity on it was almost zero. He began to think, than to fill the group so that there was a stable information flow. I began to take reposts and information from general sources. As a result: they collected an audience, rubrics, photos and video. The next stage of development was the attempt to create a video project and we succeeded. Lera gave me a camera for her birthday. I said: "Oh, cool, now I'll go and if possible shoot." We have allocated a certain amount from the family budget, which allowed uploading the video to the channel.
Photo Shoot: Denis Smirnov
Now on our Youtube channel 30 episodes about Pevek and surroundings. In autumn, travel blogger Alexander Nikulin flew to Pevek. Although this was not his first visit to Pevek, he nevertheless prepared for the trip and found my channel. In Pevek, we met, talked about life in the city, the Internet, blogging and much more. We exchanged contacts and have kept in touch ever since. He helps us and suggests ways to further develop our project. We learned about Yandex.Zen from him. He said that there is such a platform that has only started working since July, you can go there, because there is little information on Chukotka. A couple of weeks later we were noticed and offered to give an interview for the "Channel of the Day" column. The reason for pride was the post that received 10 thousand views and about 300 thumbs up - for a highly specialized channel, this is practically a record. Another good news was the opportunity to receive sponsorship in the amount of 300 thousand rubles. As a support channel, we are an example to others. It’s not just to suck in news feeds or catch all kinds of HYIPs, we motivate other channels to be unique and original. Do not stretch on the leash of the mainstream, but bend your line.
We have on the channel there are several headings, we are trying to develop in several directions. We receive some money, we are accountable for certain points. Precisely decided for the future that we will take the technique. The computer no longer pulls editing. Those who watch us complain about the sound quality and picture. Today, the total engagement in a public, video project and channel is becoming more and more difficult, because in addition to Internet activity, there is real life that comes first - work, family, and active recreation. And there are enough bloggers now, and, in principle, the site is busy. In Anadyr (the capital of the ChAO. - EastRussia) there is a host Igor Badanov, he posts tons of material on the region on Instagram. This year, 20 people from Anadyr and other regions of Chukotka were sent to the WEF. I will not say that everyone is Sobolev or Druzhko, and everyone is trying to troll each other, there is no such thing. There are very cool photographers who, again, are placed in our group.
LERA: My nickname "Fool from the North" is a popular song by the band "LaScala", whose soloist is from Anadyr. She flew to Moscow, and after some time released a song that became a hit in alternative circles. She sings, referring to the young man, that" a fool from the north "because of the difference in time zones again will not sleep, will listen to you. We liked the play on words. When I first arrived in Chukotka, it was hard for me to adapt, I walked around and clapped my eyes at everything. I'm afraid that I will be fired from work for these words, but I'll tell you about my first impression. We flew by plane, everything was fine, I think I'll look at my watch, somewhere we are close to the place of my imprisonment. And then it begins to decline, and I understand that we are landing in ... a puddle. There is no landing strip, no lanterns, nothing. I think, Lord, Lera. I'm used to big terminals, where you go out with things and wait for the bus, they take you as a white man, hand you over, ribbon, luggage. And then the exit to the city is like an underground passage on some I got out so lost.
Photo Shoot: Denis Abolmasov
LERA: In Voronezh, I worked in an advertising agency as a coordinator of promotional and event projects. But I decided that I would always have time to build a career, but not a family, and flew in. Here I got a job close to my profession - as an editor on television, here my diploma can somehow stick. The first month I was inspired, I liked the privacy after all these promoters, customers, clients. You walk, and the grass smells good, open spaces, some kind of berries. Everything is so beautiful, there are no people, silence in the streets. And after a month she starts to want - that's it, enough silence, you can return to your usual rhythm. And nowhere. A friend put it: "When I come to Chukotka, it feels like they cover me with a can and canned me." After 5 months I could not stand it and said: "Take me a ticket as soon as possible, I need to fly for a short time." I flew away, had time to work, Yefim flew in on vacation, collected my things and took me back. It was hard to fly again, I think I started smiling sincerely about three months ago. I tried to console myself somehow. Frankly speaking, what I miss here is not the hangout, but the professionalism. Recently I was very upset. There is a project called "School for Young Leaders" of small indigenous peoples. And everything is good in this project, young people are drawn to knowledge, but there is no one to teach! They were taught by a person, a personal growth coach who is deeply over 50. He himself does not have the energy that needs to be given to the young. And in order to ignite, there must be a person who has not forgotten what it means to be on fire yourself.
EFIM: The Internet is the biggest problem, I have already forgotten what speed is and how to measure it! We tried streaming video on Rostelecom, audio communication is more or less, but the channel is narrow. A couple of the first videos we flew several times, the money just burned into the void, or the traffic burned out. Then we learned that 3 gigabytes can be downloaded in 8-2 hours. At night, our tariff is cheaper - 0,35 kopecks - we began to guess the traffic that we had, 1000 rubles for 4 gigabytes. But when there are many issues, 3-4 in a row, it hits the budget.
Among my friends there is a joke that our district, anyway at all, we have our own flag, our coat of arms, we in general can separate and sail, because they are autonomous! Our periphery is something unique. The North is checking. When someone arrives here for work, not everyone can stand these polar nights, days, winds, atmospheric pressure, because we are on the border with the cosmos. Who does not stand, leaves. With some things, the truth is hard to get used to. Because of the lack of unlimited Internet, many yearn for. This is the main question for all young people.
TRASH TALK FROM THE FORMER
EFIM: Classic delusions and stories about Chukotka are, of course, yarangs, Chukchi, white bears and so on, you can read it in any anecdote. But in our group there is a type of people who left here and do not understand in any way how we continue to live here. They are ruined: how can you here, Lord, what is it, come to us in the mud, it's great! This causes me the greatest internal dissonance. Plus there is still a hacking of what is happening here. They made the road, aah, that means something else will be broken. That is, if they do something good, it will start hate speech, trash talk, all the fashionable now has its form. This is a classic of delusions, which I encountered from the former for a year and a half. In 2016, when I was on vacation, I heard that we make money in Chukotka. As in an anecdote: "It's good in the North, cold influences the salary. Money here shovels with shovels. Mom, they got money for a shovel! ". Perhaps these canons remained, that he dressed in Chukotka, took a sack of gold and went on vacation.
Photo Shoot: Alexander Krasnov
EFIM: I have many adult colleagues at work who have already lived, they say that they used to fly to a beer in Magadan, it was cool! And now everyone called, in one country we live, even the northern surcharges are limited now, and the salary, in principle, too. Coefficients - such a question, not everyone and not everything is possible, depends on the company, the employer.
There is an opinion that the inhabitants of Chukotka can not endure the heat. Not used. Once I had a little vacation for a summer. I specifically chose not the hottest time and flew in February, but found June-July. I went to Voronezh. The heat is not to say that it's direct, but I spent two months lying under the air conditioner. Personally, I'm annoyed that I'm sticky, a couple of friends have the same theme. But with the intolerance of the heat you can argue, because my brother was in Turkey, and he is fine. It's all psychosomatic.
Photo: Alexey Mikulin
EFIM: Residents of Chukotka on the mainland can be recognized by a special mentality. We with ours, singers, understand each other more. About Yuzhak, about the pipe, about something else. They don't seem to look at us at all, although they have to chew on another. My friend told me when he came to the university, everyone learned that he was from Pevek. Some girl comes up and shows a mobile phone, touches her finger and says: “Maaaabilnik”. Then he pulls out his own and says: “I have too much.” There the girl was a little space, apparently trying to joke or flirt like that.
LERA: The Chukchi, who preserve their customs, can tell a lot. They still remember some words and songs, they can say something in Chukchi, and 30-year-olds no longer know their native language. And this is a very big problem. Our social policy department even has a plan to introduce native language teaching. It's funny, you come to Chukotka, there is an indigenous population who does not know the language. And it's almost impossible to learn it! Those who have it in their blood speak beautifully; it caresses the ear when it pours without tension. But I break my tongue immediately on pronouncing the first word. I love Chukchi songs very much, but here they were reduced to such a minimum, to monotonous ethno-sounding of 3-4 Chukchi phrases, but still beautiful. I interviewed the owner of the yaranga, who made this dwelling with her own hands, she made skins, sticks for her, everything, everything. This year in Moscow at the exhibition "Treasures of the North" her yaranga took first place in the nomination of national dwelling and national cuisine, but there are not many of them left.
Photo Shoot: Anastasia Karpenko
LERA: Chukchi - they are completely unsophisticated. They say they think. Maybe this is just my opinion, but I didn’t notice slyness behind them. It seems they do not have this in their blood, they say everything in the forehead. Another example: at the “Young Leader’s School”, where 18 teenagers from Pevek City District participated, they started asking questions - did you like it, and would you like to become a leader? And one is completely calm: “No. I participated, but I will never be a leader, I don’t like it. ”
HEAVENLY DIMMER AND WEATHER PSYCHOSES
EFIM: The polar night in Chukotka begins on November 27 and January 16 retreats. This does not happen in one second, gradually, gradually, and you realize that already in the night. We started a video blog in March, more or less light day appeared. Another moment, we began to shoot from the panoramas of the city, and we also wanted to distinguish ourselves from many others, and also removed my eyeliners on the street. Very often, the weather interfered. Leroy and I copied the duplicates on 100 once, with shaking, frozen hands, so that there was simply no echo and the wind didn’t hit the microphone. The wind here is the most unpredictable, well, when the snow flies. And plus cold. In the summer it becomes easier, but, again, you will not be protected from the wind, we need a separate microphone. I originally bought a go pro action camera, I thought it would be more convenient to take it with me, but it turned out that neither a microphone, nor anything connected to it, and we often “had fun” when subscribers wrote about it. At the interview, the sound very sadly subsides, and in the dark, as in poor lighting, it starts to pixelate. I discovered a lot during the year in shooting in the conditions of the Far North, this is a kind of experience.
Along with the polar night and day, one of the amazing wonders of Chukotka is the yuzhak, a very strong wind, up to 50 m / s, which has a monsoon effect (the city was built up taking into account these hurricane winds - houses were erected so that each microdistrict had a building-wall overlapping strong air flow, protecting other structures - East Russia). You can just be knocked down, carried away, dragged. Its most basic feature is that it is long, it can take a week, a month, it is clear that a month is on the verge of fantasy, but recently it blew for a week. At this time, schools are canceled, unimportant employees are left at home, very important employees are driven in cars, and everything becomes serious, because it is dangerous. And the door can slam, and something else, such a quality breeze! When Lera arrived, she said, this is the wind, 20 meters per second! I replied that it was still bearable, that there will be forty, then we will have fun! We also carried away the New Year tree.
Photo Shoot: Anastasia Karpenko
EFIM: ForIt’s a common thing for us when the wind moves cars, overturns garbage cans, brings or carries away tons of snow, fills up roads (crossings, passages, paths, boxes). And it just tears off and carries away everything that lies badly. As a rule, such cases are rare, since with experience everything that was not screwed on became screwed on, and everything that was badly standing became firmly standing. In this weather your home is a fortress. It becomes even more comfortable and lamp-like under the yoke of the elements, when the gusts hit the windows so loudly and forcefully that it seems that they are about to knock them out. Sometimes it even seems that they are slightly sagging inward. But I think this is already a mind game.
EFIM: The northern lights above Pevek are clearly visible. Bright, juicy, straight snakes such in the sky stir, green, long. At first, it's very cool, then you get used to it. But sometimes nature still surprises you and gives out such a northern light as the pillars of light, and you do not believe that it is real. And the wind is also a bonus, its own romance. My nephew is so joyous, he walks about, oh-ho-ho, nothing needs to be done to the school, it is always canceled with a strong southerner. To schoolboys in general a лафа, and I with heat it recollect these moments in the childhood, and it is pleased.
Photo: Vladimir Zavialov
EFIM: Our house is located near the seashore, it is very convenient, you can make a barbecue nearby and a barbecue. And then somehow in the middle of August we got together, I open the window - the snow is flying! We went in jackets. And mosquitoes mixed with snow are also normal. There is a video where in July there is snow behind me in the quarry, and mosquitoes fly. Mosquitoes are generally mad, Leroy and I filmed a video for the next competition, mosquitoes are not that many, they are just crazy in the summer. In the tundra, when you are the only living creature, and, for example, your dog, you can become sad.
GOLDEN EGGS OF CHUKOTKA
EFIM: Before the New Year, we just posted a shock price. Eggs for 380 rubles for a dozen, that's tough, that's cool! We have the coolest eggs. Bread black without sprinkling 60 rubles, a loaf of 100 rubles, but it's here done. I, of course, fly every two years on vacation, and I heard that there are eggs for 50 rubles, but I do not believe in it, as in a fairy tale. I say, you deceive me, there is no such thing! Milk from us 120-150 руб.
Photo Shoot: Valery Khlebnikov
EFIM: Air traffic is generally sadness, melancholy, somewhere in the region of 40 thousand rubles. to Moscow one way, there are already 80 back and forth. That is why I fly on vacation every two years, they pay me travel.
LERA: There is an opinion that those who live in Chukotka have their pockets tightly stuffed with money, and the pots with the gold of the dwarfs are hidden in the apartment. Therefore, the boundaries of "friendship" are quickly delineated on vacation, where every barely familiar person tries to look into your pocket, thus showing that he is very curious about how much you earn "in the Severs!". I am far from the image of "Mr. Crabs", and greed is not my distinguishing feature. But huge salaries are a myth. It was a reality before the collapse of the USSR. And now Chukotka is just rising from its knees and is still standing in the defending stance. Perhaps, even 8-10 years - and everything will again be like in the Soviet Union, but today ... Take, for example, the prices of products.
Photo Shoot: Pavel Koshelenko
LERA: The story that the fresh char and the smelt themselves jump into your mouth, ahead of the freshly deer, is just a myth. Sometimes my hands drop when I pay for okroshka 1100 rubles, and without finding bread kvass. That is a standard set - cucumbers 3 pieces, green 2 beam, eggs 10 pieces and sour cream - cost me more than in 1000 rubles. And no, it's not a charge of huge inflated prices. I'm perfectly oriented in pricing and I know what it's worth to deliver to Pevek at least something.
ABROAD TWO WORLDS
LERA: Now young people are returning to Chukotka, they are starting to work, reorganizing the space. The first time I flew in 2015, and now 2017 comes to an end - in three years colossal changes, the 95th year of birth is returning, which we unlearned in 2012. They come back and slowly begin to rock this boat, but it must be rocked! It is important that this does not die out in the beginning, because it happens. Professionals need something to keep, in rubles, and the ruble is not always the motivation that a person needs. Now in Chukotka there are young specialists who work because they are interested in it. They are considering moving, but inside this northern edge. For example, to come from Anadyr to Pevek to work for a period of vacation. More precisely, to fly in such a toy Lego plane, which the locals call "Dashki", either for 12 or for 14 seats. He flies very slowly. In Canada, it is used for walking. There are also "ANs", but I haven’t had a chance to fly them yet. Of course, helicopters also arrive from villages and neighboring settlements.
I plan to stay here for a while. At first we wanted to leave in 2 years, now I am already considering options to stay and to some extent transport my loved ones to Chukotka, because I am protected from all sides. Maternity, I think about it too, and I really like the institution of motherhood in Chukotka, here children under one year old are given free mixtures, mashed potatoes. A can of a good mixture on the mainland costs at least 700 rubles, but here one of the best mixtures for up to a year is given free of charge if you do not have milk. Also complementary foods, mashed potatoes. I really like kindergarten and school. I would like my children to spend their childhood here. I was whispering in Fime's ear, more than 35 children are to be born in Pevek by the end of the year. A good indicator.
The level of medicine is the only thing that confuses. And when we discuss the issue of breeding our family (laughs - East Russia), we are thinking of giving birth on the mainland, and returning here. I still do not feel so much the spirit of Pevek, I confess. They are trying to establish medicine, and the progress is colossal. Here there is a reconstruction of the hospital, it is completely remodeled under the key, everything was demolished, even the partitions were broken, only the external box was left.
EFIM: Pevek is now at the turn, on the Rubicon. Personally for me it is as written by our fellow countryman Timur Akhmetov: "Pevek is stuck with one foot in a scoop, and with the other he is trying to step into the atomic future. Pevek is romantically bathed in the setting bright sun and smokes a half-century coal-fired power plant." The city is straight of contrasts and contrasts. On the one hand, beautiful playgrounds for children are being built, on the other, dilapidated old buildings are being destroyed. Destruction is removed. In general, for the last 2-3 years, I have seen positive dynamics, the construction of a hospital, yard playgrounds, money either in connection with the floating nuclear power plant began to be given, or they were and the implementation of projects began. The dam, which had been built for a very long time, was launched. It's not all bad and it's worth talking about!
EFIM: There was a period when everyone left here (at the end of the last - the beginning of this century, Pevek became an absolute record holder for the relative decline in population, the 1989 census - 12 thousand people, 2002 - 5,2 thousand people - East Russia). Lera was recently at a meeting with the head, where it was announced that now we have a population of 5,5 thousand inhabitants. There is a phrase that Russia will begin to revive from the north, and I feel it inside. This is probably why I did all this.
We are connected to the TOP programs, the Far Eastern hectare, the Free Port of Vladivostok, to all these WEFs and economic developments. Today I read: due to the fact that we are the most stable region, the government allocated us 406 million rubles. to the district. If all this money is now used for the benefit and development, apparently, they see the potential.
It seems to me that we are also doing something useful for society and people. You will read later in the comments, they say, "shed a tear" or "touched", and it catches. What in this world I did well not only myself. This is why we started it all - people, especially those who left Pevek, have a wild longing. It is a fact. One guy said that my friend showed me a vidos, he washed it for a week. He said, aaa native Pevek, all business! Tears. Any creativity is created for it so that it touches so much.
But we are not turned on in Chukotka and Pevek until fanaticism. Yes, we love them, but I, for example, for a very long time went to this love, so pure and sincere. We must understand that there are still some ambitions, which, unfortunately, Chukotka and Pevek will not cover. If I feel that I need to move on, I will move. At the moment, we are good here, we are really happy here, we are building a family. And we get pleasure from the nature of Chukotka, the tundra, the mad expanses of space, from which it simply blows down the roof. It's all worthy to spend here at least some part of your life. Because you just go and bang! - you find some structure, whether something was there, or not, just a mysterious place. Cartoon Gravity Falls like from here they drew it, it seems, it's somewhere here, in the tundra everything happens. After Voronezh Pevek was for me as a hospital for the soul. I realized how much more important for me than the mainland. What we have achieved means that we can achieve something far from a billion blessings. Stay in the conservation, in the reservation everyone needs, it is under all these wonders of nature inside that something wakes up.
Photo Shoot: Denis Smirnov
EFIM: Yes, we are amicably admiring the beauty of natural phenomena, but, dropping a glance from heaven to earth, we begin to spit from bored dead roads and crumbling buildings. Our city is, as I like to say, at the edge of the universe. Around for many thousands of kilometers stretches the wilderness. Exceptions are mining companies, villages and ghost settlements. Against the background of this greatness we are an amazing mole on the body of the Chukchi land, which defended its piece of territory with blood and nоtom, grasping firmly for him. And this birthmark is trying. Oh, how he tries, with all his might to enter into a new time, without losing himself at the same time.
Photo: Nikolay Ratnikov
PS By the way. There are no stray cats in Pevek! Absolutely. On the street, to put it mildly, it is uncomfortable, because the tailed beasts occupied an unexpected, and at the same time, very logical place for heating ... Details here